Found an undocumented “feature” of iCal – it is possible to get it to behave correctly by setting iCal/Preferences/General as follows:
Days per week: 7
Start week on: Wednesday
Scroll in week view by: Days
What is interesting is that this does NOT do what you would think, it actually does The Right Thing(tm) and starts the 7 day view with today, no matter what day it is. Hurray!